As promised today we will take a sneak peak into my latest vintage gown pattern.
The first thing I noticed about the pattern when I pulled it out of the bag was the previous owner's extensions to the bodice pieces. It looks like someone wanted a longer waisted bodice - a long line fitted bodice with a dropped waist seam was popular around the same time. It looks like it was drafted to be attached not with a straight even waist seam, but one that zig-zags to form points at each gore. It is interesting to speculate on this pattern morph, isn't it?
In the photo above are the bodice pieces, from left to right in the order they'd be sewn together. Of course there are quite a few gathered edges, but I find the pieces themselves interesting. The one on the far right is the back.The lining, or inner bodice, is different in construction that the outer bodice. It is almost the same as the inner bodice on the Diamonds gown, made from a vintage pattern as well. You can see the front piece with it's center horizontal bust dart and some of the instructions in the photo below.

Due to the straps and front construction, this gown has a back zipper. The zipper might be able to be moved to the side. That would depends on the straps and the support they'd need.
The straps themselves are attached via felled seam over the gathered edges of the bodice. The strap facings are then stitched in place.
The gown also features an inner belt at the waist to take the stress of the heavy skirt off of the straps and top edge of the dress. The skirt is also underlined in netting or crinoline to give it that perfect shape, which I'm sure was also helped by wearing the proper petticoats with it.
Beyond the construction details, I noticed a few things about the deltor (instruction sheet) and pattern printings.The first thing you see when looking at the deltor is this:
My pattern didn't include sheet 2, but from reading the rest of the pattern, sheet 2 gives information on fitting, fabrics, and general sewing techniques.I also noticed this at the top of the sheet with the actual instructions. Interesting reminder of what we're supposed to be doing!
Another thing about this pattern that I find odd is that it is only printed in English. I have other patterns that are older or from the same era and the pattern pieces themselves have all the words printed in English, French and Spanish. This one doesn't - take a look at the piece #5, the back, below. Elsewhere, in the instructions, the word "center" is spelled "centre", which is the alternate spelling, not generally used in American publications.
Q/A: Sigrid wanted to know I'd ever make this one or if it was just part of my collection. I buy vintage patterns with the intent of actually making them, not just collection. The bodice is just too interesting not to at least consider it or a version of it to be made. If I were to make it, it might be part of an art garment ensemble.Parting Shot: Kiwi is just outside the photo shoot. She's out and about the house more, but still very skittish and scampers away if we try to pet her. She does try to play with the other cats, but they view her as more of nuisance than as a playmate.

9 comments:
Fascinating pattern, Summerset! Thanks for thus sharing the details with us. Whenever you get around to make that one, it is sure to be fantastic.
What an interesting pattern. I really like it and would try to find something similar, if only I ever had an occasion to wear it. Enjoy!
(and thanks for your nice comment on my blog)
really nice! If I ever finish my jacket (hey I did cut out the lining today!) plus the blinds for the sewing room I'll so totally start on my newest vintage items :)
Love the kitty pic (hey, I'm always in for kitty pics and it seems Kiwi is settling in bit by bit)
Interesting pattern. Thanks for sharing. Here in Australia we still spell centre with the "re".
Your son's coat will be pretty spiffy with those closures - nice find!
Little Kiwi is coming along bit by bit. She may always be a little skittish at times, but it's a good thing that she's interested in what humans are doing and wants to play with the other kitties.
Can you post a picture of the pattern
envelope. I would like to see a picture of the dress.
What an interesting pattern! I'm always interested in such details (I like knowing the how's and why's on almost everything!). This would turn out beautifully into a great Art-to-Wear garment!!
Tany - I'm like you - I find the shapes of the pieces and how they fit together interesting. That's part of reason I buy the vintage patterns - they have such interesting details, and I love seeing how those details are made.
I'm a total lurker - I wish there were time for reading *and* commenting - but I just happened to be reading the Kirke book on Vionnet (amazing - FULL of her patterns - so inspiring) and some of her bodices were seamed to her skirts with zig-zag seams, to allow seams to be on the long and cross grains with a bodice cut on the bias. Of course it also looks cool, if you like detail, so could also be used just to get the style.
I loved that book. I got it from the library but if I had more money I'd buy it - I sent it back saying SOME day, I'm going to make up one of those patterns!
thanks for your blog, it is always fun to read!
-fruitbat
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